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Water heater repair

Short answer

Most water heater problems come from a handful of parts: the pilot, thermocouple or igniter on gas models, the heating elements or thermostats on electric models, the temperature and pressure relief valve, and sediment in the tank. These are repairable. A leak from the tank body itself is not, and means replacement.

Updated · Editorial team; not yet technically reviewed

Water pipes and shutoff valves in a utility room

Water Heater Repair at a glance

Gas: no hot water
Pilot out, faulty thermocouple or flame sensor, igniter, or gas valve.
Electric: no hot water
Tripped breaker or high-limit reset, failed element or thermostat.
Not enough hot water
A failed lower element, broken dip tube, sediment, or an undersized heater.
Repair vs. replace
Tank leaks and old units needing major parts usually mean replacement.
Cutaway of a gas tank water heater showing the dip tube, anode rod, burner, flue, temperature and pressure relief valve, and drain valve
Diagram. Knowing the parts makes the symptoms easier to read.

Troubleshooting by symptom

Water heater symptoms
SymptomLikely causesSafe homeowner check
No hot water (gas)Pilot out, thermocouple, igniter, gas valveFollow the relighting instructions on the label; if it won't stay lit, call
No hot water (electric)Breaker, high-limit cutoff, element, thermostatCheck the breaker; don't open the element panels with power on
Runs out fastLower element failed, dip tube broken, sediment, undersizedNote how long hot water lasts; have the plumber test elements
Rumbling or poppingSediment on the tank bottomFlushing may help; see maintenance
Rotten-egg smell in hot waterBacteria reacting with the anode rodA plumber can disinfect the tank and change the anode type
Water at the T&P discharge pipeExcess pressure or temperature, or a worn valveCall; don't cap or plug the pipe
Water pooling under the tankFitting, valve, or tank leakFind the source; a tank leak means replacement

The temperature and pressure relief valve

The T&P valve is the water heater's main safety device. It opens if tank temperature or pressure gets too high, discharging water through a pipe that should end near the floor or at an approved drain. A valve that drips repeatedly may be worn, or it may be responding to high pressure from thermal expansion in a closed system. The fix may be a new valve, an expansion tank, or a pressure-reducing valve. Never plug or cap the discharge pipe.

What to leave to a plumber

  • Anything involving the gas valve, gas connector or burner assembly.
  • Electrical work inside the element compartments.
  • Venting problems, soot, or scorching around the burner opening. These can indicate combustion problems; if you suspect carbon monoxide, get everyone outside and call 911.
  • Replacing the T&P valve or anode rod on a heater that's been neglected, since fittings can be seized.

Is the repair worth it?

Compare the repair cost with the heater's age. A thermocouple or element on a five-year-old heater is an easy call. A gas valve on a heater near or past ten years old often isn't worth it, because the tank itself is nearing the end of its life. See water heater replacement for choosing a new unit.

Methods and specific problems

Problems that lead to water heater repair

Common questions

Why does my gas water heater pilot keep going out?

Common causes are a failing thermocouple or flame sensor, a dirty pilot tube, drafts, or a venting problem. If it won't stay lit after relighting per the label, call a plumber.

Why do I have hot water but not enough of it?

On electric heaters, a failed lower element is common. Other causes are a broken dip tube mixing cold into the hot, heavy sediment, or a heater too small for the household.

Is it safe to use a water heater that's leaking?

Shut off the cold supply and the fuel or power if the tank is leaking. A dripping fitting may be fixable, but a tank leak can suddenly get worse.

Where water heater repair is a common call

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